Mein Aufenthalt in der Türkei war – im Verhältnis zur Größe des Landes – eher kurz, insgesamt habe ich dort nur knapp 3 Wochen verbracht. Dafür waren die archäologischen Stätten, die ich besichtigen konnte, vom Feinsten.
Nach unserer Rückkehr aus dem Libanon und einem kurzen Zwischenstopp in Damaskus haben wir uns auf den Weg in die Osttürkei gemacht. Erster Punkt war Gaziantep, wo wir im Museum die Mosaiken aus dem antiken Zeugma besichtigen konnten. Zeugma wurde von den Seleukiden, den Nachfolgern Alexanders gegründet und gehörte später zum Römischen Reich. Berühmt geworden ist es, als es vor einigen Jahren wegen eines Staudammbaus versank und man während der Rettungsgrabungen wunderschöne Mosaiken entdeckt hat.
Mosaik aus Zeugma
In Zeugma selbst sind wir auf dem Weg nach Urfa oder Sanliurfa vorbeigefahren und haben dort sogar Archäologen aus Ankara getroffen, die uns eine kurze Führung durch die derzeit laufenden Grabungen gegeben haben, es ist nämlich nicht alles im Stausee versunken und der Rest, der noch oberflächlich erhalten ist, soll in den nächsten Jahren für den Tourismus zugänglich gemacht werden.
In Zeugma
In Urfa waren wir natürlich wegen dem Göbekli Tepe – ein „muss“ für jeden Prähistoriker! Aber die Stadt selbst hat auch so einiges zu bieten, unter anderem einen ziemlich berühmten Karpfenteich. Als Abraham auf dem Scheiterhaufen geopfert werden sollte hat Gott diesen angeblich in einen Teich und die glühenden Kohlen in Karpfen verwandelt. Und beides kann man heute in einem recht netten Park in Urfa besichtigen. Die Karpfen dürfen natürlich nicht geschlachtet werden und zudem werden sie von allen Besuchern ständig gefüttert, was dazu führt, dass sie zum einen riesengroß werden, zum anderen unglaublich gefräßig und gierig sind. Wenn man an einer Stelle Futter reinwirft in den Teich prügeln sich soviele Karpfen darum, dass an dieser Stelle praktisch kein Wasser mehr zu sehen ist, sondern nur ein Gewirr aus Karpfenleibern. Seltsamer Anblick.
Am Göbekli Tepe
In Urfa haben wir zuerst das Museum besichtigt, wo schon einige Funde vom Göbekli Tepe liegen. Und anschließend sind wir dann zu dieser mittlerweile scheinbar weltberühmten (zumindest wenn man sich das Gästebuch dort durchliest) Fundstätte gefahren. Für alle Nicht-Archäologen: der Göbekli-Tepe ist ein Fundort aus der frühen Jungsteinzeit, als die Menschen noch kein Getreide anbauten oder Haustiere hielten, sondern vom Jagen und Sammeln lebten. Aber offensichtlich gab es in Südostanatolien einen Ort, der für sie so wichtig war, dass sie sich dort trafen und etwas ganz Unglaubliches schufen. Auf die Besucher, die im Alltag nichts mit Archäologie am Hut haben, mag es wirken wie Tempelgebäude, aber was es nun genau ist, wird sich durch die derzeit laufenden Forschungen noch zeigen.
Am Göbekli Tepe
Auf jeden Fall kann man dort mehrere Räume besichtigen, die rund oder oval sind und an deren Rand t-förmige Pfeiler aufgestellt sind, die Reliefs aufweisen.
T-Kopf-Pfeiler mit Fuchsdarstellung
Auf den Reliefs sind ganz unterschiedliche Tiere zu erkennen, Schlangen sind recht häufig, aber auch Füchse oder irgendwelche Vögel. Wenn man manchem Besucher, der sich im Gästebuch verewigt hat, glauben soll, dann handelt es sich dort um den Ort, wo man der großen Muttergöttin ganz nahe kommt und irgendwelche spirituellen Erfahrungen machen kann. Das war jetzt bei uns nicht der Fall…aber es war auf jeden Fall sehr beeindruckend.
Hier wohnt Silex, der Wachhund vom Göbekli
Das nächste Highlight war der Nemrut Dag, ein Berg im Taurusgebirge, der alle umliegenden Berge überragt, unter anderem deshalb, weil Antiochos I (1. Jh. v. Chr.) dort einen 50m hohen Grabhügel auf der Bergspitze hat errichten lassen. Antiochos war Herrscher eines Reiches namens Kommagene, das genau zwischen dem Römerreich und dem Partherreich lag. Berühmt ist es wohl vor allem wegen des Nemrut Dag („da“ gesprochen), den manchen von Euch vielleicht von Fotos kennen. Da steht also dieser Grabhügel aus Geröll auf einer Bergspitze mitten im Gebirge und um ihn herum noch insgesamt 3 Terrassen mit leider nicht mehr ganz vollständigen steinernen Statuen – man hat es regelrecht mit einem Prozessionsweg zu tun.
Am Nemrut Dagi
Wir hatten an dem Tag sehr viel Nebel, aus dem immer mal wieder einer der Statuenköpfe aufblitzte, das hatte schon etwas Magisches. Denn am Nemrut Dag lies sich Antiochos neben verschiedenen Göttern darstellen und diese Figuren sind dort – etwas zerstückelt – aufgestellt.
Am Nemrut Dagi
Was mich aber besonders beeindruckt hat war die Gestaltung ganzer Landschaften in Kommagene, denn wir sind anschließend weitergefahren zur Residenzstadt dieses kleinen Reiches – Arsameia – und von dort weiter zum sog. Karakus.
In Arsameia
Der Karakus (Karakusch gesprochen) ist ein weiterer Grabhügel, der ebenfalls recht imposant in hügeliger Landschaft thront.
Karakus
Er wurde von Antiochos Sohn für den weiblichen Teil der Familie (also Mutter, Schwester etc.) errichtet, und wenn man dort steht kann man in der Ferne den Nemrut Dag erkennen und Arsameia. D.h. es ist alles so angelegt, dass man immer Sichtverbindung hat und das über zig Kilometer.
Blick vom Karakus Richtung Nemrut Dagi (die kleine Spitze am Horizont)
Nach dem Nemrut Dag standen Malatya – die heimliche Hauptstadt der getrockneten Aprikosen, die es dort auch in allen Varianten zu kaufen gibt – und der Arslantepe auf dem Programm. Und das war nicht minder sensationell, da dort in einem Grab vom Anfang des 3. Jt. v. Chr. Schwerter aus Arsenbronze gefunden wurden. Für alle Nicht-Archäologen: Bronzeschwerter werden in Mitteleuropa erst gut 1000 Jahre später, etwa um die Mitte des 2. Jt. v. Chr. hergestellt, also deutlich später.
Die Schwerter vom Arslantepe - Detail
Vom Arslantepe, den wir uns dann auch noch angeschaut haben, gings weiter zum Kültepe, auch bekannt unter dem Namen Kanesch-Karum. Der Kültepe war für mich ein sehr spannender Besichtigungspunkt, weil man dort bereits im 2. Jt. v. Chr. Händlerkolonien nachweisen kann.
Am Kültepe (Kanesch-Karum)
Das klingt jetzt vielleicht nicht sooo sensationell, aber man muss sich vorstellen, dass Handel, wie wir ihn heute kennen wahrscheinlich erst im Mittelalter oder noch später aufkommt. Freie Händler, die unabhängig agieren sind in der Vorgeschichte kaum nachweisbar – wobei man natürlich dazu sagen muss, dass so ein Nachweis auch schwer zu erbringen ist. Aber in Kültepe hatte man das Glück Keilschrifttafeln zu finden, und von diesen wissen wir, dass dort im zentralen Anatolien die einheimische Bevölkerung in ihrer Siedlung „Kanesch“ lebte und nebenan, in „Karum“ Händler aus Assyrien – Zugezogenen sozusagen. Und diese Händler hatten mit den einheimischen Bewohnern und dessen Herrscher ein Abkommen, dass sie eine Art Steuer zahlen, aber dafür auch beschützt werden.
Haus mit Inventar in Karum
Ich finde das sehr faszinierend, vor allem weil man für diese Zeit eigentlich annimmt, dass es keine unabhängigen Händler gibt, sondern nur solche, die im Auftrag irgendwelcher Herrscher unterwegs waren. Aber in Kültepe deutet sich eben an, dass es auch andere Modelle gab. Neben Kültepe liegt Kaiseri, eine Stadt, in der man noch einige architektonische Hinterlassenschaften der Seldschuken aus dem 13. Jh. besichtigen kann – das hat natürlich vor allem unsere Architekten in der Gruppe begeistert.
Grabungskatze in Arslantepe
Nach den ganzen archäologischen Highlights haben wir zwei Tage „Natur und Landschaft“ eingeschoben, wir sind nämlich weitergefahren nach Kappadokien.
Ankunft in Kappadokien
Diese Landschaft hat ihr Aussehen zahlreichen Vulkanausbrüchen zu verdanken, denn dort stehen unzählige kleine Kegel aus Tuffstein in der Gegend herum.
In Göreme
Ein bißchen fühlt man sich dort wie im Märchenwald oder wie auf einem anderen Planeten. Tuffstein hat den Vorteil, dass er sehr weich ist.
Tuffsteinhäuschen
Und diese Eigenschaft nutzen die Bewohner Kappadokiens schon seit Jahrhunderten, um in die kleinen Kegel Höhlenkirchen zu bauen, oder Wohnungen oder auch mal eine Garage fürs Auto. Das Gebiet ist herrlich zum Wandern, vor allem um Göreme herum, wo wir übernachtet haben.
Ein letzter Blick auf das zauberhafte Kappadokien
Von Kappadokien gings – mit einem kurzen Zwischenstopp in Acemhöyük, dem Museum in Aksaray und in Sultanhani, wo es eine recht gut erhaltene Karawanserei aus dem 13. Jh. zu sehen gibt – nach Konya und nach Catal Höyük.
Sultanhani - Eingang zur Karawanserei
Dieser weltberühmte Platz muss natürlich, genau wie schon der Göbekli Tepe, von jedem Prähistoriker angesteuert werden. Für alle Nicht-Archäologen: Catal Höyük ist ein Siedlungshügel, der seit der Jungsteinzeit besiedelt ist. In den 1960er Jahren hat ein britischer Archäologe dort gegraben und recht spannende Dinge entdeckt. Unter anderem waren darunter Wandmalereien in Häusern erhalten, auf den kopflose Menschen und Vögel dargestellt sind, die als Geier interpretiert werden. Daneben hat man eine kleine „Statue“ gefunden, die in den Medien oft als „Muttergottheit“ angesprochen wird. Es gibt auch Räume, in denen Rinderschädel mit Hörnern als Wandinstallationen gefunden wurden etc.
Die Grabung von Catal Höyük - Installation in einem Gebäude
Mittlerweile sind dort ganz verschiedene Grabungsteams am Werk und graben an verschiedenen Stellen, um dem Geheimnis „Catal Höyük“ weiter auf die Spur zu kommen – sehr spannend!
Rekonstruktion eines Raumes von Catal Höyük im Museum in Ankara
Von Catal Höyük aus haben wir eine ziemlich lange Autofahrt nach Norden angetreten, um uns Gordion, die Hauptstadt der Phryger anzusehen.
Blick über Gordion und die umliegenden Grabhügel
Die Phryger sind ab dem 9. Jh. v. Chr. in Zentralanatolien fassbar und bekannt ist vor allem ihr König Midas. Der soll angeblich auch dort bestattet sein. Denn in dieser recht hübschen Landschaft um Gordion stehen über 80 Grabhügel, von denen der größte archäologisch untersucht und als „Midas-Hügel“ bezeichnet wurde. Gesichert ist das aber natürlich nicht.
Der sogenannte Midas-Grabhügel in Gordion
Von Gordion gings weiter nach Ankara, wo wir uns ganze zwei Tage Zeit genommen haben, um uns das Museum für anatolische Zivilisation anzusehen. Dieses Museum kann ich nur weiter empfehlen, dort sind einfach unglaublich tolle Funde zu besichtigen. Es geht los mit den Wandmalereien aus Catal Höyük und wunderschöner neolithischer Keramik aus Hacilar, von dort wandert man weiter zu den wirklich sensationellen Funden aus Alacahöyük. Die Vitrinen sind voll mit Goldschmuck (Diademe, Nadeln etc.)), Hirschfiguren aus Bronze, die mit Elektron verziert sind, rätselhaften „Sonnenscheiben“ und Waffen aller Art. Von dort aus geht man weiter zu den berühmten Hethitern und ihren mindestens ebenso sehenswerten materiellen Hinterlassenschaften. Und schließlich steht man mitten unter den Funden (wunderschöne Holzmöbel mit Einlegearbeiten, bronzene Kessel, Gürtelbleche, Elfenbeinschnitzereien etc.) aus dem Reich der Urartäer, das in Ostanatolien lag. Und man kommt aus dem Staunen einfach nicht heraus.
Hattuscha -eines der Tore in die Hauptstadt
Von Ankara aus haben wir auch Hattuscha, die Hauptstadt der Hethiter besucht – eine riesen Anlage in einer sehr aparten Landschaft, die immer wieder mit kleinen Felsnasen durchsetzt ist. Die Hethiter sind ein Volk, das im 2. Jahrtausend v. Chr. in Zentralanatolien lebte. Sie stellten wohl eine ziemliche Macht dar. Bekannt ist aus Keilschrifttexten u.a., dass sie mit dem ägyptischen König Ramses II. aneinander gerieten – in der Schlacht von Kadesch 1274 v. Chr.
Blick auf Hattuscha
In Ankara waren wir dann noch beim Deutschen Botschafter zum Mittagessen eingeladen – und das war vom Feinsten. Es gab Garnelen auf Salatbett Tomatencremesuppe, Putengeschnetzeltes mit Reis (klingt banal, aber ich hab selten mit soviel Appetit Putengeschnetzeltes gegessen nach all der orientalischen Küche die letzten zweieinhalb Monate) und Vanilleeis mit Erdbeersauce – dazu einen sagenhaft guten deutschen Weißwein und natürlich recht unterhaltsame Konversation in ansprechendem Ambiente. Ein sehr netter Termin und zur Abwechslung konnten wir uns mal wieder richtig schick machen und Outdoorhose und Treckingschuhe zu Hause im Schrank lassen.
Blick auf die Bosporusbrücke - aus dem Badfenster des DAI
Endpunkt unserer Türkeireise war Istanbul – eine Stadt, die mich einfach begeistert hat. Zum einen wirkt sie natürlich sehr westlich, was man, wenn man aus Gegenden so weit im Osten kommt, doch auch mal wieder sehr genießt. Zum anderen hat sie wirklich viel zu bieten – tolle Sehenswürdigkeiten, nette Kneipen, eine herrliche Aussicht auf den Bosporus und zwei Kontinente in einer Stadt vereint. Wir hatten aber auch das Glück, im DAI untergebracht zu sein. Denn das DAI hat eine unbeschreiblich schöne Aussicht auf den Bosporus. Wenn man im Bad stand hatte man einen wunderbaren Blick auf die berühmte Brücke, die Europa und Asien verbindet. Wenn man aus unserem Zimmerfenster geschaut hat war das Goldene Horn mit der Blauen Moschee, der Hagia Sophia und dem Topkapi-Palast zu sehen. Man konnte dort also gut und gern mehrere Stunden am Fenster stehen ohne sich satt zu sehen.
Blick vom DAI aufs Goldene Horn - Topkapi-Palast, Hagia Sophia und Blaue Moschee
Der Abschied viel daher natürlich schwer.
Aber nun liegt wieder ein neuer Reiseabschnitt vor mir – wir fahren weiter nach Westen und zurück nach Europa (nach 3 Monaten im wilden Osten), wovon ich bald berichten werde….
Herzliche Grüsse
S.
Die
Am 22. Mai 2009 um 09:22 Uhr
Hach… was soll ich sagen! Das Archäologen-Herz weint vor Freude!
Am 22. Oktober 2013 um 22:18 Uhr
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تم التخلّص من الحشرات الطائرة الصّغيرة في المطبخ بواسطة الخل عن طريق اتّباع الخطوات الأتية: خلط ِعدّة قطراتٍ من صابون الأطباق السائل مع عودٍ القرفة. وضعِ خليط الصّابون مع القرفة في زجاجة رذاذ مملوءة بالخل. رجِّ الزجاجة لأكثر من مرة بحيث يتم خلط المكونات مع بعضها البعض جيداً. رشِ المحلول الموجود بالزّجاجة على الذباب مباشرةً، وبعد ذلك شطف المنطقة بالماء ومسحها بمنشفةٍ ورقيّةٍ.
يُستخدم خل التُّفاح في التخلّص من الحشرات الطائرة الصغيرة في المطبخ، ومنها التّخلص من ذباب الفاكهة، ويتم استخدامه عن طريق اتِّباع الخطوات الآتية: سكبِ القليل من خلِّ التفاح في كوبٍ مُعيّن. تغطية الكوب بواسطة غلافٍ بلاستيكي، وتثبيته بشريطٍ مطاطي. ثقب الغلاف البلاستيكي لعدّة ثقوبٍ صغيرة؛ وذلك من أجل تسهيل دخول ذباب الفاكهة إليه‘ حيث بذلك سيدخل الذباب إلى الكوب، فهو لا يُقاوم رائحة خل التفاح.
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1. „Die Türkei ist ein wahres Schatzkästchen für Archäologen und Geschichte-Liebhaber!“
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1. „Die Ausgrabungen in Göbekli Tepe haben unsere Vorstellung von der Geschichte der Menschheit revolutioniert.“
2. „Die Stadt Troja ist ein Must-See für jeden Archäologie-Enthusiasten.“
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1. „Die Türkei hat eine unglaubliche Anzahl an archäologischen Stätten, die noch nicht vollständig erforscht sind.“
2. „Die Geschichte der Türkei reicht von den Hethitern bis zum Osmanischen Reich.“
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