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Griechenland – der erste Teil…

Seit nunmehr zwei Wochen, bin ich in Griechenland unterwegs. Die Grenzübertritt von der Türkei nach Griechenland war der bislang unkomplizierteste, in 20 Minuten war alles erledigt. Das schöne an unsere Fahrt nach Griechenland war für mich, dass ich nach 3 Monaten erstmals wieder auf europäischem Boden stand und das war schon ein tolles Gefühl. Ein bißchen war es wie „wieder heim kommen“ find ich, vor allem auch als ich am nächsten Morgen von Kirchenglocken und nicht vom Muezzin geweckt wurde.

Am Golf von Volos

Am Golf von Volos

Unsere bisherige Reise hat uns vom äußersten Zipfel im Nordosten Griechenlands über Thessaloniki (wo wir nur einen Tag Zwischenstop eingelegt haben, um das archäologische und das byzantinische Museum zu besuchen, übrigens sehr empfehlenswert!) – Volos – Athen auf die Peloponnes geführt.

Eingestiegen in die Geschichte und Archäologie Griechenlands sind wir mit Makedonien und der Zeit Philipps II (dem Vater von Alexander d. Gr.) und Alexanders d. Gr. (4. Jh. v. Chr.). Wir haben zuerst Pella besucht, die Hauptstadt des Makedonenreiches, wo Alexander auch geboren wurde. Pella ist berühmt für seine großzügigen Wohnhäuser mit recht hübschen Säulenhöfen (Peristylhöfe) und für seine Kieselmosaike, die deutlich älter sind, als die Mosaike, die wir bislang immer gesehen haben. Sie stammen aus dem 4. und 3. Jh. v. Chr. und gehören damit mit zu den ältesten bekannten Mosaiken (interessanterweise ist das Mosaik aus Gordion nochmal deutlich älter!).

Kieselmosaik aus Pella

Kieselmosaik aus Pella

Kieselmosaik aus Pella - Detail

Kieselmosaik aus Pella - Detail

Von Pella gings nach Vergina, wo unglaublich reich ausgestattete Königsgräber aus dieser Zeit gefunden wurden, darunter ein Grabhügel, der Alexanders Vater Philipp II. zugeschrieben wird. Allein die Steinfassaden der Gräber mit wunderschöner Bemalung sind schon umwerfend, aber die Beigaben aus Gold, Elfenbein und was es sonst noch an Luxus gab, sind ohne Vergleich.

Grabhügel unter dem Philipp begraben sein soll

Vergina - Grabhügel unter dem Philipp II begraben sein soll

Vergina - Grabfassade aus dem 4. Jh. v. Chr.

Vergina - Grabfassade aus dem 4. Jh. v. Chr.

Nach Pella und Vergina darf natürlich Dion nicht fehlen – das Hauptheiligtum der Makedonen. Dion steht heute großteils im Sumpf bzw. Fuß-tief im Wasser, weshalb mir vor allem das Konzert der Frösche im Gedächtnis geblieben ist, das uns den ganzen Tag dort begleitet hat, aber natürlich auch der Blick auf den Olymp, der dort quasi vor der Haustür liegt. Die Götter konnten also direkt runterschauen auf Dion.

Impressionen aus Dion

Impressionen aus Dion

Impressionen aus Dion

Impressionen aus Dion

Nach diesem Ausflug in die Geschichte der Makedonen sind wir erstmal wieder im Neolithikum gelandet, denn wir haben Sesklo und Dimini besucht. Das sind jungsteinzeitliche Siedlungen, die für uns Archäologen recht wichtig geworden sind, da die dort gefundene Keramik namengebend für 2 Zeitstufen ist. Sesklo erlebte seine Blüte im 6. Jt. v. Chr., Dimini im 5. Jt. v. Chr. Was für Nicht-Archäologen vielleicht ein wenig langweilig aussehen mag, fasziniert uns Prähistoriker sehr. Zum einen sind die Häuser in beiden Siedlungen mit Steinfundamenten errichtet worden, so dass die Grundrisse sehr gut erkennbar sind, zudem gibt es noch Häuser mit Inventar, was auch nicht selbstverständlich ist. Und zum anderen lässt sich eine recht komplexer Siedlungsaufbau nachweisen, u.a. wurden in Dimini Steinmauern gefunden, die ein Gebäude umgeben, das ganz prominent oben auf der Spitze des Siedlungshügels liegt und das von seinem Grundriss stark an das erinnert was in späteren Zeiten einmal Tempel und Palast wird. Und das alles zusammen spiegelt doch für die Jungsteinzeit eine recht komplexe Siedlungsweise und Gesellschaft wider, die manch einer den Menschen damals gar nicht zutrauen würde.

Dimini

Dimini...

...und Sesklo

...und Sesklo

Über Dimini und Sesklo gings weiter nach Süden auf die Peloponnes. Wir haben allerdings noch einen kurzen Zwischenstop an der Südspitze des griechischen Festlands eingelegt um zwei wunderbar erhaltene attische Grenzbefestigungen zu besuchen, die sozusagen auf dem Weg lagen. Als ich die Mauern und Zinnen von Eleftheres und Aigosthenai oben am Berg sah, dachte ich erst, ich hätte es mit einer gut erhaltenen mittelalterlichen Burganlage zu tun. Weit gefehlt, die Mauern sind aus dem 4. Jh. v. Chr., aus der Zeit, als Athen einen Schutzwall errichten ließ um sich – als damalige Supermacht – gegen seine Feinde schützen zu können.

Eleftheres

Eleftheres

Aigosthenai

Aigosthenai

Auf der Peloponnes haben wir bislang nur die nordöstlichste Ecke, die Argolis besucht. Denn dort hagelt es echte „Berühmtheiten“.

Zuerst waren wir in Epidauros, das vor allem für sein wunderhübsches Theater bekannt ist. In der Antike war Epidauros aber vor allem als Kultstätte für den Gott Asklepios von Bedeutung. Die Menschen glaubten, dass dieser Gott sie von schweren Krankheiten heilen könne, daher pilgerten sie nach Epidauros. Dort übernachteten sie in einem extra dafür angelegten Gebäude, um in einer Art „Heilschlaf“ dem Gott zu begegnen.

Epidauros - das Theater

Epidauros - das Theater

Nach Epidauros waren wir in Franchthi, einer Höhle, die sowohl in der Alt- als auch in der Jungsteinzeit bewohnt war. Diese Fundstelle ist für Archäologen recht spannend, weil man dort hofft erfassen zu können wie der Übergang von der Alt- zur Jungsteinzeit abgelaufen ist, d.h. der Übergang vom Leben als Jäger und Sammler hin zum Leben als „Bauer“. Abgesehen davon liegt dies Höhle einfach unglaublich idyllisch an einem recht einsamen Strand mit strahlend blauem Meer und kleinen Inseln am Horizont. Daher war der Strand auch gar nicht sooo einsam.

Die Bucht nahe der Franchthi-Höhle

Die Bucht nahe der Franchthi-Höhle

Am Ende unseres kurzen Ausflugs auf die Peloponnes standen Tiryns und Mykene – die berühmten Paläste der Mykener (v.a. aus dem 14./13. jh. v. Chr.).

Mykenische Brücke - auf dem Weg nach Tiryns

Mykenische Brücke - auf dem Weg nach Tiryns

Da ich vor fast 15 Jahren schon einmal in Griechenland war und diese beiden Stätten besuchen konnte, hatte ich noch grobe Vorstellungen, wie es dort aussah. Ich konnte mich auch erinnern, dass ich damals sehr beeindruckt war vom Löwentor in Mykene und den zyklopischen Mauern in Tiryns. Da ich diesmal allerdings aus dem Osten kam, wo aus wesentlich früheren Zeiten sehr beeindruckende Palastanlagen erhalten sind und wo einfach an vielen Stellen nochmal mehr erhalten ist, war ich – naja, enttäuscht wäre zuviel gesagt, denn beide Anlagen sind ja unheimlich spannend – aber doch erstaunt, wie wenig man oberflächlich noch sieht.

Die zyklopischen Mauern von Tiryns

Die zyklopischen Mauern von Tiryns

Tiryns - Blick in die "Ostgalerie"

Tiryns - Blick in die "Ostgalerie"

Mykene - Löwentor...

Mykene - Löwentor

...und Gräberrund A

...und Gräberrund

Von Mykene aus haben wir uns noch das frühbronzezeitliche Lerna angeschaut, das Heraion von Argos und Korinth – das antike Korinth und Akrokorinth, eine Festungsanlage, deren Mauern ebenfalls bis in antike Zeit zurückreichen. Was die Bilder nicht verraten ist, dass es an dem Tag so heiß war, dass wir beim Aufstieg zur Festung schon nach 500m schlapp gemacht haben, aber vom Tor aus hat sich die Anlage sowieso besser fotografieren lassen…

Korinth - Apollon Tempel

Korinth - Apollon Tempel

Blick auf Akrokorinth

Blick auf Akrokorinth

Den krönenden Abschluß unseres ersten Reiseabschnitts hat Delphi gebildet, die Stätte des berühmten Orakels! Delphi liegt am griechischen Festland recht dramatisch in den Bergen. Und dramatisch ist es wirklich, denn ab und an kamen und kommen immer noch Felsbrocken die Berge herabgestürzt. In Delphi ging man damit in der Antike recht pragmatisch um, man hat die Felsbrocken – wenn sie dann schon da lagen – einfach verehrt.

Delphi - Apollon Tempel

Delphi - Apollon Tempel

Delphi - Blick auf den Apollon Tempel

Delphi - Blick auf den Apollon Tempel und das Theater

Delphi - Heiligtum der Athena Pronaia

Delphi - im Heiligtum der Athena Pronaia

Mittlerweile sind wir in Athen angekommen, wo wir am DAI erstmal unsere Sachen geordnet und Wäsche gewaschen haben. Aber wir hatten auch Zeit die Stadt anzuschauen, das Nationalmuseum, die Akropolis und die Agora und Kerameikos – Töpferviertel und Nekropole des antiken Athens.

Auf der Akropolis von Athen - Parthenon

Auf der Akropolis von Athen - Parthenon

Auf der Akropolis von Athen - Erechtheion

Auf der Akropolis von Athen - Erechtheion

Auf der Agora von Athen - Tempel der Athena E. und des Hephaistos

Auf der Agora von Athen - Tempel der Athena E. und des Hephaistos

Morgen geht es weiter auf die Kykladen und danach noch einmal auf die Peloponnes. Griechenland mag zwar nicht so groß sein, wie manches der Länder, die ich bislang besucht habe, aber es ist einfach voll mit antiken Stätten und Museen, die eigentlich alle einen Besuch lohnen…

Herzliche Grüße
S.

Der Beitrag wurde am Freitag, den 5. Juni 2009 um 14:25 Uhr von scharl veröffentlicht und wurde unter Allgemein, Griechenland abgelegt. Sie können die Kommentare zu diesem Eintrag durch den RSS 2.0 Feed verfolgen. Sie können einen Kommentar schreiben, oder einen Trackback auf Ihrer Seite einrichten.

270 Reaktionen zu “Griechenland – der erste Teil…”

  1. Stefan Cordes

    Also ich kommentier hier jetzt einfach auch mal 😉
    Spannend, interessant und auch schön bunt!

    Ein tolles Blog, ich freu mich als CeDiS Mitarbeiter vor allem, dass der Umstieg auf die neue Blogsoftware offenbar funktionierte und wünsche uns für die FU viele weitere solcher interessanten Blogs.

    Viele Grüße

    aus Berlin

    Stefan Cordes, CeDiS FU Berlin

  2. M+M Kleemann

    Schön, dass Ihr wieder europäisches Festland betreten habt. Jetzt habt ihr wohl den abenteuerlichsten Teil eurer Reise hinter euch gebracht. Griechenland ist aber auch sehr spannend, ein paar von den „Steinhaufen“, z.B. Athen, Korinth und Mykene hab ich auch schon gesehen und bewundert. ahrscheinlich steht auch noch Olympia auf dem Programm, oder? Weiterhin eine gute Reise und liebe Grüße!
    Wann seid ihr eigentlich wieder zu Hause?

    M+M

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