Impressionen

von unterwegs

Ausflug in den Süden

Die letzte Woche haben wir im Süden Jordaniens verbracht. Ausgangspunkt für unsere Ausflüge dort war Wadi Musa – der Ort, der direkt neben der berühmten Nabatäerstadt Petra liegt. Die ersten beiden Tage haben wir dann auch mit Wanderungen in den verschlungenen Siqs und Tälern von Petra verbracht. Erster Höhepunkt war natürlich die Wanderung durch den Siq zum „Schatzhaus des Pharaos“ (Khazne Firaun), den wir erst ein Stück zu Pferd und dann zu Fuß zurückgelegt haben. Das war echtes Indianer Jones-Feeling. Als dann die weltberühmte Fassade zwischen den steilen Wänden des Siqs auftauchte, stockte einem erstmal kurz der Atem. Der Anblick ist einfach unglaublich beeindruckend, vor allem durch das Zusammenspiel mit der Landschaft. Leider ist Petra voll von Touristen, so dass man dauernd damit beschäftigt ist, irgendwelchen Kameras, Kamelen oder Eseln (die einem für Touren durch Petra angeboten werden) auszuweichen. Daher haben wir uns am 2. Tag gleich zu Sonnenaufgang auf den Weg zum Schatzhaus gemacht und waren tatsächlich die ersten und für eine halbe Stunde auch die einzigen Menschen dort. Ausgestattet mit Taschen voller Essen, haben wir die Ruhe dort für ein Frühstückspicknick genutzt, andächtig versunken in den grandiosen Anblick (Das sind dann die Momente, die einem wahrscheinlich nur das Reisestipendium beschert). Den Rest des Tages waren wir „Bergwandern“, denn Petra ist voll von Tempeln und Gräbern, die sich in den kleinen, von Touristen kaum wahrgenommenen Seitentälern und auf den Gipfeln finden.

 

Petra

Petra - Schatzhaus des Pharao

Der 3. Tag im Süden gehörte ganz uns Prähistorikern und war mindestens genauso spannend, wie die beiden Tage vorher. Wir haben einen Ausflug ins Wadi Feinan gemacht, das vor allem unter Archäometallurgen bekannt sein dürfte, da dort u.a. Kupferadern und damit verbunden Verhüttungsplätze und Siedlungen zu finden sind. Abenteuerlich war schon die Anreise, weil wir uns von Petra (das auf ca. 1000m üNN liegt) über ein schmales, schlecht ausgebautes und einsames Gebirgssträßchen in die nur ca. 100m üNN gelegene Ebene (Wadi Araba) hinunterarbeiten mussten. Da kam nicht nur unser Auto ins Schwitzen. Im Wadi Feinan angekommen sind wir auf 2 Pickups verteilt worden und ein ortskundiger Führer hat uns dann von PPN B Fundstellen zu kupferzeitlichen Verhüttungsplätzen zu eisenzeitlichen Schlackehalden und weiter zu Kupferadern mit dazugehörigen Abbauschächten gefahren.

Wadi Feinan

Wadi Feinan

Kleine Ader mit Kupfererzen

Kleine Ader mit Kupfererzen im Wadi Feinan

Abbauschacht im Wadi Feinan

Wir Prähistoriker sind aus dem Staunen gar nicht mehr rausgekommen. Der krönende Abschluss war dann ein Glas Tee im Wadi, das unser Führer frisch für uns zubereitet hat. Auf dem Rückweg haben wir dann noch Beidha besichtigt, wo man nicht nur die PPN-zeitlichen Hüttengrundrisse bewundern konnte, sondern auch eine Rekonstruktion derselben.

 

Beidha - Rundhütte in situ

Rundhütte rekonstruiert

Aber auch das Mittelalter kam die letzten Tage nicht zu kurz, denn wir haben uns die Kreuzritterburgen von Kerak(1142) und Shawbak (1115) angeschaut, die aufgrund ihrer Größe und Lage ziemlich beeindruckend sind. Da Touristen dort in allen Ecken und Winkeln herumklettern dürfen, sei es in der Zisterne oder auf irgendwelchen Türmen, sind diese Burgen natürlich herrliche Abenteuerspielplätze.

 

Shawbak

 

Apropos Abenteuer, auch die Fahrt nach Qasr al-Bushir, einem diokletianischen Limeskastell (3./frühes 4. Jh. AD) würde ich hierzu rechnen, denn dorthin gibt es keine Strasse, sondern nur Sandpisten. Dafür liegt es malerisch einsam in der Wüste. Obwohl, so ganz einsam liegt es da nicht, denn ein Schäfer hat es als Gatter für seine Schafe auserkoren. Aber dadurch, dass es sonst kein Leben um das Qasr gibt, konnte es auch niemand als Steinbruch missbrauchen, so dass die Türme noch bis zum 2. Stockwerk erhalten sind. Man bekommt also einen sehr guten Eindruck, wie so ein Kastell einmal ausgesehen hat. Und nicht nur das: am Horizont sieht man auch die benachbarten Kastelle, so dass man auch vom Limes dort eine sehr gute Vorstellung bekommt.

Qasr al-Bushir

Qasr al-Bushir Innenansicht

So, das war erstmal ein kurzer Einblick in das, was wir die letzten Tage so gemacht haben. Weiteres folgt in Kürze.

Herzliche Grüsse
S.

Der Beitrag wurde am Samstag, den 14. März 2009 um 15:18 Uhr von scharl veröffentlicht und wurde unter Allgemein, Jordanien abgelegt. Sie können die Kommentare zu diesem Eintrag durch den RSS 2.0 Feed verfolgen. Sie können einen Kommentar schreiben, oder einen Trackback auf Ihrer Seite einrichten.

108 Reaktionen zu “Ausflug in den Süden”

  1. E.R.

    Seufz! Fernweh und schöne Erinneurngen kommne da hoch. Vergeßt den Badetag am Toten Meer nicht 🙂 Herzliche Grüße aus dem Kampf gegen den Schimmel in K06, E.

  2. T. E.

    Liebe Silviane, wenn man Deine anschaulichen Schilderungen liest, noch dazu illustriert mit diesen wunderbaren Fotos, wird man ja richtig neidisch! Sehr schön, dass Ihr so tolle Eindrücke sammeln könnt – da scheint sich der ganze Vorbereitungsstress ja richtig gelohnt zu haben 😉 Ich drücke die Daumen, dass es so weitergeht und freue mich auf weitere spannende Berichte! Ganz liebe Grüße aus Friedenau 🙂

  3. M+M Kleemann

    Liebe Silly, hab zufällig letzte Woche im Spiegel einen Bericht über Gadara bzw. die dortige römische Wasserleitung gelesen. Ich weiß ja nicht, ob du diese Ausgrabung noch besuchst, im Artikel klang das Ganze aber recht spannend. Weiterhin noch viel Freude beim weiteren Entdecken!

  4. JK

    Die Bilder sind mal wieder der Hammer! Aber das wird ja langsam schon zur Gewohnheit 😉

    Und Silli, alter Vollblut-Archäologe: hihihi, das heißt doch nicht Indianer Jones, sondern Indiana Jones 😉 Du solltest die „archäologischen Fach-Filme“ nicht so vernachlässigen 😉 Man muss schließlich universal-gebildet sein.

    Ach bin ich heute wieder fies…

    Aber wegen der Fundstellen, die ihr besucht (v.a. Beidha, hoffentlich habe ich es richtig geschrieben), da könnte man richtig grün vor Neid werden!

    Und auch nochmal an dieser Stelle, damit es auch sicher ankommt: Lieber Stefan, alles Gute zum Geburtstag!

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