Impressionen

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Von Damaskus nach Aleppo

Syrien ist landschaftlich ein Land der absoluten Gegensaetze. Es reicht von der kargen Wueste im Osten bis zu den bluehenden Landschaften am Mittelmeer. Auf unserer ersten Fahrt von Damaskus ueber Hama nach Aleppo haben wir uns erst einmal zwischen diesen beiden Extremen bewegt.

Auf dem Weg Richtung Norden war unser erster Punkt Dmeir, wo mitten im Ort ein unglaublich gut erhaltener Tempel zu finden ist. Der Zeus-Tempel stammt aus dem 2. Jh. AD und wird heute – zumindest indirekt – immer noch genutzt, naemlich als Picknickplatz.

Zeustempel in Dmeir

Ueber Qatna und Homs ging es weiter nach Hama. Hama ist eine kleine Stadt zwischen Damaskus und Aleppo, die vor allem fuer ihre Wasserraeder – die sogenannten Norias – beruehmt ist.  Sie sind das Wahrzeichen der Stadt und sollen angeblich schon seit dem 4. Jh. AD benutzt werden. Nett ist auch die verwinkelte Altstadt, mit engen Gaesschen, Kopfsteinpflaster, Erkern und Torboegen. Da wir erst abends ankamen, hatten wir leider nur Zeit fuer einen kurzen Stadtspaziergang, dabei haben wir gleich die Gelegenheit genutzt um die 2. Beruemtheit der Stadt kennenzulernen – das suesse Gebaeck. Sehr empfehlenswert!

Wasserraeder (Norias) in Hama

Von Hama ging es am naechsten Tag weiter nach Aleppo, wo wir erstmals so richtig in den Orient eingetaucht sind. Jordanien ist ja sehr westlich und auch Damaskus wirkt in manchen Ecken eher wie Paris. Aleppo dagegen ist sehr orientalisch – zumindest habe ich mir den Orient so vorgestellt. Besonders deutlich ist das bei unserem ersten Gang durch die engen Gassen des Basars dort geworden. Unser maennlicher Begleiter (wir waren 3 Frauen und 1 Mann) wurde von allen Seiten mit der Frage ‚Sie haben 3 Frauen?‘ bombardiert. Ueberall wurden einem Tuecher, Gewuerze oder Seife angeboten, Menschen mit schweren Karren, Fahrraedern oder Eseln versuchten sich einen Weg durch die Menge zu Bahnen und es herrschte ein unglaublicher Laerm. Kaum war ich dem Basar entkommen, nahm ich mir vor, keinen Fuss mehr dort hinein zu setzen. Aber man gewoehnt sich schneller an den ‚Orient‘ als ich dachte und am naechsten Tag waren wir schon wieder dort und haben auch gleich eingekauft.
In Aleppo haben wir uns – neben dem Basar – vor allem die Zitadelle und die Omaijaden-Moschee angeschaut. Die Zitadelle – der Bau stammt aus dem 15.Jh. – betritt man ueber ein ziemlich maechtige Bruecke, durch die man an das Haupttor gelangt. Im Inneren der Mauern findet sich ein Gewirr aus teilweise erhaltenen, teilweise rekonstruierten Bauten, von denen vor allem der rekonstruierte Thronsaal mit bemalter Holzdecke und bunten Glasfenstern sehenswert ist. Interessant ist aber auch, dass inmitten der mittelalterlichen bzw. neutzeitlichen Bebauung gerade ein Tempel (der Tempel des Wettergottes Halab) ausgegraben wird. Wir hatten Glueck und haben bei unserem Rundgang ein Wissenschaftler-Team aus Deutschland getroffen, die gerade daran arbeiten und konnten uns den Tempel ganz aus der Naehe anschauen.

Zitadelle von Aleppo

Noch beeindruckender als die Zitadelle fand ich die Omaijaden-Moschee, da ich vorher noch nie in einer Moschee war. Ausgestattet mit einem grauen Ueberwurf, der den Touristinnen am Eingang in die Hand gedrueckt wird, haben wir uns erst einmal ein ruhiges Plaetzchen in der Moschee gesucht und das Treiben dort beobachtet. Ich war echt beeindruckt. Die Stimmung dort ist sehr angenehm, um nicht zu sagen einladend. Keine Ahnung was ich erwartet habe, aber das sicher nicht. Waehrend man bei der Besichtigung einer katholischen Kirche eher bemueht ist um Schweigen und durch manchen Kirchenraum eher durchschleicht um niemanden zu stoeren, herrscht in der Moschee eine sehr offene und lebendige Atmosphaere. Sie ist eher Treffpunkt als nur Gebetsort, hat man den Eindruck.

Omaijaden-Moschee in Aleppo

Aleppo - Eingang zum Museum

Genossen habe ich auch unseren Tag im Museum, wo einen die Basaltstatuen vom Tell Halaf gleich am Eingang begruessen. Der Tag hat einfach gut getan, weil man in Ruhe rekapitulieren konnte, was man schon gesehen hat, was noch spannend waere und wie die ganzen Fundstellen miteinander verknuepft sind.

Auf dem Weg nach Cyrrhus

Von Aleppo aus haben wir dann noch einige Tage Ausfluege in den Nordwesten Syriens unternommen. Die Landschaft dort ist unglaublich schoen. Zwischen den felsigen Huegeln stehen alte Olivenbaeume und dazwischen blueht es in allen Farben. Ein wichtiger Punkt dort war Cyrrhus, eine Stadt mit Bauten aus dem 2., 5. und 6. Jh. AD. Von der Stadt selbst ist nicht mehr allzu viel erhalten, aber vor der Stadt – auf dem heutigen Friedhof – steht ein sechseckiges Grab mit Pyramidendach aus dem 3. Jh., das einfach in den modernen Friedhof intergriert wurde. Um dorthin zu gelangen mussten wir mit unserem VW Bus ueber 2 roemische Bruecken fahren, die noch genau so dort in der Landschaft stehen, wie sie von den Roemern damals dorthin gebaut wurden. Sogar der Strassenbelag oben drauf ist noch original – d.h. es gab nur 1 Spur und natuerlich keine Pfosten, die einem vor einem Absturz in den Fluss haetten bewahren koennen, dafuer tiefe Rinnen von den vielen Waegen die schon da drueber gefahren sind.

Cyrrhus

Neben Cyrrhus habe ich vor allem unseren Ausflug nach Ain Dara genossen, einem Tell, auf dem die Reste eines Tempels aus dem fruehen 1. Jt. BC gefunden wurden. Beim Aufstieg wird man zuerst von einer in Basalt gemeiselten Loewenstatue begruesst. Betritt man den Tempel, laeuft man ueber Stufen, auf denen riesige Fussabdruecke eingemeiselt sind. Die sollen von der Goettin Ishtar stammen.

Ain Dara

Basaltloewe in Ain Dara

Fussabdruck der Goettin Ishtar

Nach Ain Dara war dann noch das Simeons-Kloster dran, ein fruehchristlicher Wallfahrtsort, wo der Hl. Simeon verehrt wird. Der ist dafuer bekannt, dass er 42 Jahre auf einer Saeule verbracht hat – was ich persoenlich ziemlich verrueckt finde. Die Reste der Saeule stehen noch heute in der Kirchenruine.

Simeonskloster

Vom Simeonskloster und Aleppo sind wir weitergefahren Richtung Wueste….aber davon berichte ich im naechsten Eintrag.

Herzliche Gruesse
S.

Der Beitrag wurde am Dienstag, den 7. April 2009 um 07:44 Uhr von scharl veröffentlicht und wurde unter Allgemein, Syrien abgelegt. Sie können die Kommentare zu diesem Eintrag durch den RSS 2.0 Feed verfolgen. Sie können einen Kommentar schreiben, oder einen Trackback auf Ihrer Seite einrichten.

197 Reaktionen zu “Von Damaskus nach Aleppo”

  1. JK

    Ach ja! Du weißt wie es bei mir mit „Reisen“ bestellt ist… aber da könnte ich glatt neidisch werden 😉
    Die Bilder sind einfach alle so schön!

  2. Thomas

    Silviane, Deine Schilderungen und Bilder machen einem so Lust, Dir nachzureisen! Von der Fahrt über eine römische Brücke ohne Absperrung muß ich mir irgendwann einmal persönlich erzählen lassen… und falls Du eines gemacht hast, hätte ich wirklich gerne ein Photo der Säule von Simon dem Styliten! Weiterhin eine tolle Zeit und frohe Ostern!

  3. Walter K

    Hallo Silli,

    schöne Bilder! Ich wünsch dir weiterhin viel Spaß auf deiner Reise und frohe Ostern

  4. Eva

    Vielen Dank für den tollen Reisebericht und die schönen Fotos. Besonders interessant fand ich die Aufnahmen von Aleppo, kennt man den Namen doch durch die berühmte Aleppo-Seife, eine traditionelle Olivenöl- und Lorbeerbeerenöl-Seife, die dort seit jahrhunderten hergestellt wird.

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    Wirklich sehr interessant, besonders die Passage über Aleppo, aus der die gleichnamige Seife kommt. (vgl: https://www.najel.net/ger/)

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