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Von Aleppo nach Palmyra

Von Aleppo sind wir weiter gen Osten gefahren, d.h. in die Wueste. Das Schoene an unserer Tour durch den Osten war, dass wir die Gelegenheit hatten mehrere Grabungen zu besuchen, wo entweder die Grabungsmannschaften am Arbeiten waren oder zumindest die Grabungsleiter vor Ort anzutreffen waren. D.h. wir haben in mache Ausgrabungen einen sehr tiefen Einblick erhalten – unter anderem in Resafa, unserem ersten Punkt auf der Reise in den Osten Syriens. Resafa (das byzantinische Sergiopolis) war einst ein sehr wichtiger Pilgerort (und Bischofssitz), da hier oder besser gesagt in einem benachbarten Militaerlager, der roemische Soldat Sergios den Maeryrertod starb. Ueber seinem Grab entstand erst eine Kapelle und schliesslich im 5. Jh. AD eine Basilika, deren Grundmauern noch zu sehen sind. Sehenswert fand ich vor allem die riesigen Zisternen, die die Stadt mit Wasser versorgten und in die man durch einen engen dunklen Gang hinabsteigen konnte.

Resafa - Stadtmauer

Resafa - Stadtmauer

Resafa

Resafa

In einer Zisterne von Resafa

In einer Zisterne von Resafa

Von Resafa ging es weiter nach Deir-az-Zur, einer Stadt die direkt am Euphrat liegt. Man kann hier angeblich ganz herrlichen Euphrat-Fisch essen kann, nur leider hatten wir die Zeit dazu nicht. Dafuer konnten wir einen Blick auf die beruehmte Euphrat-Bruecke werfen, die angeblich ein Architekt aus dem Dunstkreis Eiffels gebaut hat (aussehen wuerde sie auch so). Und wir hatten die Gelegenheit eine Fuehrung durchs archaeologische Museum zu bekommen mit direkt anschliessendem Besuch von Tell Sheikh Hamad, wo uns der Grabungsleiter persoenlich gefuehrt hat. Der Tell liegt, oder sollte man besser sagen lag am Ufer das Khabour, einem Fluss mit ehemals stark schuettender Quelle, der in der Wueste dort eine absolute Lebensader ist oder besser gesagt war, denn viel ist nicht mehr uebrig von dem Fluss, nur die Konsequenzen sind derzeit noch nicht absehbar.

Tell Sheikh Hamad

Tell Sheikh Hamad

Bei hereinbrechender Daemmerung haben wir uns dann noch auf den Weg nach Hassake in Nordost-Syrien gemacht, weil wir dort einen Blick auf den groessten Tell ueberhaupt – Tell Brak – werfen wollten. Nur ist das Fahren bei Dunkelheit in Syrien nicht zu empfehlen, weil man dort eigentlich alles trifft ausser beleuchtete Fahrzeuge. Da marschieren Esel (gut die tun sich schwer mit der Beleuchtung) seelenruhig quer ueber die Strasse, Menschen machen Picknick am Strassenrand, voellig unbeleuchtet Fahrzeuge signalisieren dir kurz bevor du sie ueber den Haufen faehrst mit Hupe und Lichthupe, dass sie auch noch da sind, nicht mal Katzenaugen oder irgendwelche reflektierenden Materialien kleben an den Dingern. Also alles in allem ist es ein echtes Abenteuer. Aber die Fahrt nach Tell Brak hat sich gelohnt. Nicht nur, dass die Grabungsleiterin kurz vor uns dort eingetroffen war und uns gleich zum Tee eingeladen hat, wir konnten auch die Stelle besichtigen, wo Max Mallowan (der Mann von Agatha Christie) den beruehmten Augentempel entdeckt hat. Der Name stammt von den Idolen – Augenidolen – die dort zu Hauf gefunden wurden. Und die sehen wirklich ziemlich – naja ich wuerde fast sagen im wahrsten Sinn des Wortes spacig aus, mich wuerde zumindest nicht wundern, wenn jemand auf den Gedanken kaeme, dass die kleinen Tonfiguren Marsmaennchen darstellen sollen.

Tell Brak

Tell Brak

Pause in Hassake im Hotel

Pause in Hassake im Hotel

Von Tell Brak sind wir dann bis Mari (Tell Hariri) gefahren, das nur wenige Kilometer vor der irakischen Grenze liegt. Das war nicht nur aufgrund der zurueckgelegten Kilometer eine ziemlich anstrengende Tour, sondern auch wegen des Sandsturms, der uns dort erwischt hat, man hat teilweise keine 3 Meter mehr sehen koennen und der feine Staub ist durch saemitliche Ritzen im Auto gekrochen. Daher haben wir leider auch gar nichts gehabt von unserer Fahrt durch die Jezireh, wo ja ein Tell am anderen liegen soll. Aber immerhin war der Sandsturm in Mari dann vorbei.
Mari und Ebla (das wir schon auf dem Weg nach Aleppo besichtigt haben) waren in der 2. Haelfte des 3.Jt. BC zwei der maechtigsten Staedte in der Region, die sich um die Kontrolle der Karawanenroute von Mesopotamien bis zum Orontes-Tal stritten. Mari unterlag jedoch schliesslich. Die Funde von dort und die Baureste (Palast, in dem man ein Keilschriftarchiv aus rund 25 000 Tontafeln entdeckt hat) lassen erahnen, was fuer eine reiche Stadt Mari damals gewesen sein muss.

Das beeindruckende an diesen fruehen Stadtstaaten Ebla, Mari, spaeter dann auch Qatna etc. ist, dass allein schon die Innenflaeche innerhalb der Stadtmauern und die heute noch erhaltene Hoehe der Stadtmauern keinen Zweifel daran lassen, das man es wirklich mit fruehen Machtzentren zu tun hat. Das klang fuer mich im fernen Mitteleuropa immer so unglaubwuerdig – von wegen Stadtstaaten im 3. Jt. vor Christus…aber wenn man dann mal in der Stadt steht sind alle Zweifel verflogen und man ist erstmal ziemlich sprachlos.

Aber der Tag hatte noch mehr zu bieten, unser letzter Punkt bei Sonnenuntergang war Dura Europos, eine Stadt am Ufer des Euphrat, die schon im 3. Jh. vor Christus gegruendet wurde und 164 AD dann schliesslich Stuetzpunkt der Roemer (gegen Parther und spaeter Sassaniden) wurde. In Dura Europos haben wir ein franzoesische Wissenschaftler getroffen, die uns erlaubten am Grabungshaus zu zelten. Das liess sich auch erstmal sehr gut an – wer kann schon behaupten, dass er sein Zelt am Ufer des Euphrats unter einem wirklich sehenswerten orientalischen Sternenhimmel eingeweiht hat. Der Spass hatte nur bald ein Ende, weil ein ziemlich heftiger Sandsturm aufzog und wir die ganze Nacht bangen mussten, dass unser Zelt nicht ueber uns zusammenklappt. Aber es hat gehalten! Der Haken war nur, dass der feine Sandstaub ueberall reinkroch und wir morgens damit ueber und ueber bepudert waren. Unsere Mitreisenden haben uns erstmal kaum wieder erkannt, wir muessen wohl eher wie Erdmaennchen ausgesehen haben. Aber zur Belohnung fuer die Strapazen der Nacht gings weiter nach Palmyra – ein wie ich finde wirklich klingender Name.

Unser Zeltplatz am Euphrat

Unser Zeltplatz am Euphrat

Dura Europos

Dura Europos

Fuer alle Nicht-Archaeologen: Palmyra ist eine Oasenstadt mitten in der syrischen Wueste, die vor allem eine wichtige Rolle als Handelsstation spielte (bereits ab dem 3. Jh. vor Christus, aber dann vor allem bis 272 nach Christus, bis sie von den Roemern verwuestet wurde). Dies verhalf der Stadt – und das sieht man den Ruinen heute noch an – zu grossem Reichtum. Ich denke die Fotos sprechen fuer sich.

Palmyra

Palmyra

Palmyra von Oben

Palmyra von Oben

Abendstimmung in Palmyra

Abendstimmung in Palmyra

Von Palmyra – mit einem kurzen Zwischenstopp bei einigen Wuestenschloessern – haben wir uns auf den Weg zur Mittelmeerkueste gemacht, wo uns ein bluehender Garten Eden empfing. Ueberall hat es nach Jasmin und Orangenblueten geduftet und die Strassen standen voll mit bluehenden Mimosenbaeumen. Ein absolut krasser Gegensatz zur kargen Wuestenlandschaft. Aber davon mehr im naechsten Eintrag.

Herzliche Gruesse
S.

Der Beitrag wurde am Donnerstag, den 9. April 2009 um 17:18 Uhr von scharl veröffentlicht und wurde unter Allgemein, Syrien abgelegt. Sie können die Kommentare zu diesem Eintrag durch den RSS 2.0 Feed verfolgen. Sie können einen Kommentar schreiben, oder einen Trackback auf Ihrer Seite einrichten.

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    Danke für den schönen Bericht und die tollen Fotos! Es ist klasse, etwas über Syrien zu erfahren, ein Land, das man sonst meist in Zusammenhang mit Alepposeife bringt… (vgl: https://www.najel.net/ger/)

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