Von Aleppo sind wir weiter gen Osten gefahren, d.h. in die Wueste. Das Schoene an unserer Tour durch den Osten war, dass wir die Gelegenheit hatten mehrere Grabungen zu besuchen, wo entweder die Grabungsmannschaften am Arbeiten waren oder zumindest die Grabungsleiter vor Ort anzutreffen waren. D.h. wir haben in mache Ausgrabungen einen sehr tiefen Einblick erhalten – unter anderem in Resafa, unserem ersten Punkt auf der Reise in den Osten Syriens. Resafa (das byzantinische Sergiopolis) war einst ein sehr wichtiger Pilgerort (und Bischofssitz), da hier oder besser gesagt in einem benachbarten Militaerlager, der roemische Soldat Sergios den Maeryrertod starb. Ueber seinem Grab entstand erst eine Kapelle und schliesslich im 5. Jh. AD eine Basilika, deren Grundmauern noch zu sehen sind. Sehenswert fand ich vor allem die riesigen Zisternen, die die Stadt mit Wasser versorgten und in die man durch einen engen dunklen Gang hinabsteigen konnte.
Resafa - Stadtmauer
Resafa
In einer Zisterne von Resafa
Von Resafa ging es weiter nach Deir-az-Zur, einer Stadt die direkt am Euphrat liegt. Man kann hier angeblich ganz herrlichen Euphrat-Fisch essen kann, nur leider hatten wir die Zeit dazu nicht. Dafuer konnten wir einen Blick auf die beruehmte Euphrat-Bruecke werfen, die angeblich ein Architekt aus dem Dunstkreis Eiffels gebaut hat (aussehen wuerde sie auch so). Und wir hatten die Gelegenheit eine Fuehrung durchs archaeologische Museum zu bekommen mit direkt anschliessendem Besuch von Tell Sheikh Hamad, wo uns der Grabungsleiter persoenlich gefuehrt hat. Der Tell liegt, oder sollte man besser sagen lag am Ufer das Khabour, einem Fluss mit ehemals stark schuettender Quelle, der in der Wueste dort eine absolute Lebensader ist oder besser gesagt war, denn viel ist nicht mehr uebrig von dem Fluss, nur die Konsequenzen sind derzeit noch nicht absehbar.
Tell Sheikh Hamad
Bei hereinbrechender Daemmerung haben wir uns dann noch auf den Weg nach Hassake in Nordost-Syrien gemacht, weil wir dort einen Blick auf den groessten Tell ueberhaupt – Tell Brak – werfen wollten. Nur ist das Fahren bei Dunkelheit in Syrien nicht zu empfehlen, weil man dort eigentlich alles trifft ausser beleuchtete Fahrzeuge. Da marschieren Esel (gut die tun sich schwer mit der Beleuchtung) seelenruhig quer ueber die Strasse, Menschen machen Picknick am Strassenrand, voellig unbeleuchtet Fahrzeuge signalisieren dir kurz bevor du sie ueber den Haufen faehrst mit Hupe und Lichthupe, dass sie auch noch da sind, nicht mal Katzenaugen oder irgendwelche reflektierenden Materialien kleben an den Dingern. Also alles in allem ist es ein echtes Abenteuer. Aber die Fahrt nach Tell Brak hat sich gelohnt. Nicht nur, dass die Grabungsleiterin kurz vor uns dort eingetroffen war und uns gleich zum Tee eingeladen hat, wir konnten auch die Stelle besichtigen, wo Max Mallowan (der Mann von Agatha Christie) den beruehmten Augentempel entdeckt hat. Der Name stammt von den Idolen – Augenidolen – die dort zu Hauf gefunden wurden. Und die sehen wirklich ziemlich – naja ich wuerde fast sagen im wahrsten Sinn des Wortes spacig aus, mich wuerde zumindest nicht wundern, wenn jemand auf den Gedanken kaeme, dass die kleinen Tonfiguren Marsmaennchen darstellen sollen.
Tell Brak
Pause in Hassake im Hotel
Von Tell Brak sind wir dann bis Mari (Tell Hariri) gefahren, das nur wenige Kilometer vor der irakischen Grenze liegt. Das war nicht nur aufgrund der zurueckgelegten Kilometer eine ziemlich anstrengende Tour, sondern auch wegen des Sandsturms, der uns dort erwischt hat, man hat teilweise keine 3 Meter mehr sehen koennen und der feine Staub ist durch saemitliche Ritzen im Auto gekrochen. Daher haben wir leider auch gar nichts gehabt von unserer Fahrt durch die Jezireh, wo ja ein Tell am anderen liegen soll. Aber immerhin war der Sandsturm in Mari dann vorbei.
Mari und Ebla (das wir schon auf dem Weg nach Aleppo besichtigt haben) waren in der 2. Haelfte des 3.Jt. BC zwei der maechtigsten Staedte in der Region, die sich um die Kontrolle der Karawanenroute von Mesopotamien bis zum Orontes-Tal stritten. Mari unterlag jedoch schliesslich. Die Funde von dort und die Baureste (Palast, in dem man ein Keilschriftarchiv aus rund 25 000 Tontafeln entdeckt hat) lassen erahnen, was fuer eine reiche Stadt Mari damals gewesen sein muss.
Das beeindruckende an diesen fruehen Stadtstaaten Ebla, Mari, spaeter dann auch Qatna etc. ist, dass allein schon die Innenflaeche innerhalb der Stadtmauern und die heute noch erhaltene Hoehe der Stadtmauern keinen Zweifel daran lassen, das man es wirklich mit fruehen Machtzentren zu tun hat. Das klang fuer mich im fernen Mitteleuropa immer so unglaubwuerdig – von wegen Stadtstaaten im 3. Jt. vor Christus…aber wenn man dann mal in der Stadt steht sind alle Zweifel verflogen und man ist erstmal ziemlich sprachlos.
Aber der Tag hatte noch mehr zu bieten, unser letzter Punkt bei Sonnenuntergang war Dura Europos, eine Stadt am Ufer des Euphrat, die schon im 3. Jh. vor Christus gegruendet wurde und 164 AD dann schliesslich Stuetzpunkt der Roemer (gegen Parther und spaeter Sassaniden) wurde. In Dura Europos haben wir ein franzoesische Wissenschaftler getroffen, die uns erlaubten am Grabungshaus zu zelten. Das liess sich auch erstmal sehr gut an – wer kann schon behaupten, dass er sein Zelt am Ufer des Euphrats unter einem wirklich sehenswerten orientalischen Sternenhimmel eingeweiht hat. Der Spass hatte nur bald ein Ende, weil ein ziemlich heftiger Sandsturm aufzog und wir die ganze Nacht bangen mussten, dass unser Zelt nicht ueber uns zusammenklappt. Aber es hat gehalten! Der Haken war nur, dass der feine Sandstaub ueberall reinkroch und wir morgens damit ueber und ueber bepudert waren. Unsere Mitreisenden haben uns erstmal kaum wieder erkannt, wir muessen wohl eher wie Erdmaennchen ausgesehen haben. Aber zur Belohnung fuer die Strapazen der Nacht gings weiter nach Palmyra – ein wie ich finde wirklich klingender Name.
Unser Zeltplatz am Euphrat
Dura Europos
Fuer alle Nicht-Archaeologen: Palmyra ist eine Oasenstadt mitten in der syrischen Wueste, die vor allem eine wichtige Rolle als Handelsstation spielte (bereits ab dem 3. Jh. vor Christus, aber dann vor allem bis 272 nach Christus, bis sie von den Roemern verwuestet wurde). Dies verhalf der Stadt – und das sieht man den Ruinen heute noch an – zu grossem Reichtum. Ich denke die Fotos sprechen fuer sich.
Palmyra
Palmyra von Oben
Abendstimmung in Palmyra
Von Palmyra – mit einem kurzen Zwischenstopp bei einigen Wuestenschloessern – haben wir uns auf den Weg zur Mittelmeerkueste gemacht, wo uns ein bluehender Garten Eden empfing. Ueberall hat es nach Jasmin und Orangenblueten geduftet und die Strassen standen voll mit bluehenden Mimosenbaeumen. Ein absolut krasser Gegensatz zur kargen Wuestenlandschaft. Aber davon mehr im naechsten Eintrag.
Herzliche Gruesse
S.
Die
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Not getting loved is the hardest pain in this world right now and we can see that a lot of famous people are dying people because they felt that they are not loved. People put all their efforts to convince a girl to get into a relationship with her, but when its time to give her importance, people tend to disappear
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Am 26. September 2020 um 12:40 Uhr
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Am 26. September 2020 um 12:40 Uhr
People do their best to get married to their loved ones and what turns out that a small argument turns their marriage into a hell and that’s when they decide to get divorced. People do not understand that divorce will turn their love into hate forever and if their love was true, they are making the biggest mistake of their lives.
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Am 26. September 2020 um 12:41 Uhr
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Am 26. September 2020 um 12:42 Uhr
A lot of wives have certain weird wishes and one of such wish is that they want to control their husbands. Well, we all know that controlling a husband is very easy, but for that the wife need to be strict as well as loveable. If you are neither strict, nor loveable, then you will have to do certain other tasks to make sure that your husband is under your kind control.
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Am 29. September 2020 um 15:36 Uhr
The life is full of surprises. Most of the time we never know what will happen to us next. Despite all the problems one does have to do their work. But it is also important to resolve those issues. If those aren’t getting solved then it is possible that problems become worst. Thus a person who wishes to make things soon get solve with some positive energies then Vashikaran can be used. Some people take it in occult science.
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Am 29. September 2020 um 15:37 Uhr
We think that no problem will come in our life. But it is not true. Whatever we thinks that rarely get true. Thus a person should never keep this illusion in their mind that they never have to go through problems. Problems come among every person and they also have its solution. Thus a person who has confronted any of the problems in their life they should search for Vashikaran specialist near me.
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Am 18. November 2020 um 08:25 Uhr
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Am 28. Januar 2021 um 08:14 Uhr
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Am 28. Januar 2021 um 08:17 Uhr
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Am 28. Januar 2021 um 11:02 Uhr
Vashikaran is the method that is used to control the mind of other people. It is a very positive way to get rid of problems. … If you are also very upset with your break up and want your partner back in your life then contact the Vashikaran specialist. https://krishnaramshastri.com/get-your-love-back/
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he has provided positive and highly satisfactory results to thousands of clients across the world. So if you’re looking for the Best Vashikaran Specialist In Punjab, Pandit Jitesh Bhai Ji is the one.
Am 7. Mai 2021 um 13:41 Uhr
Do you need Vashikaran Specialist to make someone under your control? Do you want to attract someone with help of Vashikaran specialist? Trying to get love back by vashikaran? Then you should contact Jitesh ji. The famous Vashikaran specialist in Ludhiana, India.
Am 7. Mai 2021 um 13:42 Uhr
Have you lost your lost? Do you need vashikaran mantra to make someone loves you in one day? Or Trying to get love back? Jitesh ji is famous vashikaran specialist in Ludhiana who will help you not only to control someone or attract your man or women but give you prayers to get lost love at home too.
Am 7. Mai 2021 um 13:45 Uhr
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We think that no problem will come in our life. But it is not true. Whatever we thinks that rarely get true. Thus a person should never keep this illusion in their mind that they never have to go through problems. Problems come among every person and they also have its solution. Thus a person who has confronted any of the problems in their life they should search for Vashikaran specialist near me.
Am 7. Mai 2021 um 13:50 Uhr
Finding true love is one of the best things in one’s life. However, love marriage is still not completely acceptable in India. Thus, a lot of people have to compromise and lose the love of their life. But not anymore because the best love marriage specialist in Mumbai is here to help you.
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Am 15. November 2024 um 07:28 Uhr
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