Palmyra war unser letzter Punkt in der Wueste. Von dort haben wir uns aufgemacht Richtung Lattakia. Der Gegensatz haette nicht groesser sein koennen. Nicht nur, dass wir von der Wueste an die gruene Mittelmeerkueste gefahren sind, die Stimmung in den Staedten war auch voellig gegensaetzlich. In Palmyra haben wir viele Beduinenfamilien getroffen, in Lattakia hatte man dagegen das Gefuehl irgendwo an der Adria unterwegs zu sein. In der Stadt leben sehr viele Christen, so dass kaum verschleierte Frauen zu sehen waren und zudem ist es eine Hafenstadt mit dieser, diesen Orten eigenen Stimmung.
Orangenplantage an der Kueste
Begegnungen in Westsyrien
Lattakia war der Stuetzpunkt fuer eine Besichtigung von Ugarit, einer wichtigen Handelsstadt aus dem 2. Jt. vor Christus. Bekannt ist sie vor allem fuer das dort entdeckte – 30 Zeichen umfassende – Keilschriftalphabet. Witzigerweise haben wir dort eine deutsche Reisegruppe getroffen, deren Leiterin mit einer Mitreisenden studiert hatte. Deshalb wurden wir gleich zu einem Glas Schnaps (was ja nicht gerade das typische Getraenk in Syrien ist) im Baal-Tempel von Ugarit eingeladen, um sozusagen ein Trankopfer zu bringen.
Blick aufs Mittelmeer
Ausserdem stand Serjillah auf dem Programm, eine tote Stadt mit Bauten aus dem 6. Jh. Den sog. toten Staedten sind wir in Westsyrien sehr oft begegnet. Es sind Staedte aus fruehbyzantinischer Zeit, die im 6. und 7. Jh. verlassen wurden, nachdem Naturkatastrophen (Erdbeben und Duerreperioden) und Epidemien die ganze Region entvoelkert hatten.
- Serjillah
Grabbau mit Pyramidendach bei Serjillah
Saladins Burg
Pferdestall in Saladins Burg
Brueckenpfeiler in Saladins Burg
Die Kreuzritter haben uns bei unserer Mittelmeerfahrt noch laenger beschaeftigt. In Tartus sind wir z.B. auf eine fruehgotische Kathedrale (Notre Dame) gestossen, die man zwar in Frankreich oder Deutschland erwarten wuerde, nicht jedoch an der syrischen Mittelmeerkueste. Dadurch, dass sie – die 1123-1200 errichtet wurde – auch nicht ueberbaut ist, wie so viele Kirchen bei uns daheim, konnte man einen wunderbaren Eindruck von dem Gebaeude bekommen.
Notre Dame in Tartus
Beeindruckt hat mich auch der Donjon von Safita. Der Bau (12. Jh.) war Teil einer Templerfestung (Castel Blanc) von der heute nur noch Teile der Aussenmauer und der Bergfried (Donjon) erhalten sind. Der ist dafuer aber unglaublich gut erhalten. Im Keller gibt es eine Zisterne, die man nicht besichtigen kann. Man betritt den Turm im Erdgeschoss, das als Kapelle ausgebaut ist. In der hinteren Ecke der Kapelle fuehrt eine enge Stiege in den 1. Stock wo man in einen riesen Saal, den sogenannten Rittersaal, gelangt. Und von dort geht es weiter aufs Dach, von wo man die ganze Umgebung im Blick hat.
Donjon von Safita
Donjon von Safita - sog. Rittersaal im 1. OG
Nach Safita stand Hosn as Sulaiman auf dem Programm, ein Tempel – urspruenglich fuer Baal und Astarte aus dem 2. Jh. vor Christus, dann aber im 2. Jh. nach Christus von den Roemern umgebaut – der noch recht gut erhalten ist. Temenos und Cella stehen noch ziemlich aufrecht und man gewinnt einen guten Eindruck, welche Dimensionen die Anlage hatte.
Hosn as Sulaiman - Blick auf die gesamte Anlage
Unser letzter Punkt an dem Tag war Masyaf, eine Burg der Assassinen. 1162 wurde – jedoch nur fuer wenige Jahrzehnte – sogar der Hauptsitz dieser beruehmt-beruechtigten Truppe nach Masyaf verlegt (sonst Alamut in Persien). Die Burg mit ihren unterirdischen Gaengen und verwinkelten Kammern wird haeufig mit einem Fuchsbau verglichen.
Masyaf - Blick ins Burginnere
Dann brach auch schon der letzte Tag auf unserer Fahrt ans Mittelmeer an, den wir mit einem phoenizischen Tempel – Amrit – und der wohl beruehmtesten Kreuzritterburg – Krak des Chevaliers – abschlossen.
Amrit liegt direkt an der Kueste. Hier sind heute noch Reste eines Tempels zu besichtigen, der in einem eigens dafuer errichteten Wasserbecken steht. In der Naehe finden sich zudem drei turmartige Graeber dieser beruehmten Seefahrer-Kultur.
Waehrend wir in Amrit die einzigen Besucher waren, war der Krak voll mit Reisegruppen aus aller Herren Laender. Aber selbst das nimmt dem Bau nichts von seiner beeindruckenden Wirkung. Die Bauten, die heute zu besichtigen sind, entstanden im 12. Jh. unter den Johannitern. Die Burg war lange Zeit uneinnehmbar. Erst 1271 musste die Besatzung nach einer Belagerung kapitulieren, da keine Hilfe in Sicht war. Die Ritter durften jedoch abziehen, ohne dass ihnen ein Haar gekruemmt wurde.
phoenizischer Tempel von Amrit
Amrit - Graeber
Krak des Chevaliers
Krak des Chevaliers
Krak des Chevaliers
Vom Krak gings dann zurueck nach Damaskus, wo wir die letzten Tage verbracht haben. Wir haben die Stadt besichtigt, im Basar eingekauft und die syrische Kueche noch einmal intensiv genossen. Jetzt geht es weiter ins naechste Land, von dem ich in Kuerze berichten werde.
Herzliche Gruesse
S.
Die
Am 16. April 2009 um 07:12 Uhr
Ach, ihr wisst, ich liebe Burgen… 🙂
Am 17. April 2009 um 08:50 Uhr
Ja: überall ist Mittelalter 😉
Die Photos sind so toll – da schreibe ich doch gleich beschwingter an meinem Kapitel über die Assassinen…
Am 17. April 2009 um 20:46 Uhr
Wie immer habe ich große Freude, deinen Reiseberichten zu folgen und freue mich schon auf die nächsten Geschichten aus der Ferne… Es grüßen ganz herzlich aus München J + S
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Deine schönen Bilder und ausführlichen Beschreibungen wecken wirklich Reiselust. Herzliche Grüße aus dem ebenfalls sehr sonnigen Berching! Wir wünschen euch weiterhin eine schöne und erlebnisreiche Reise!
Am 21. April 2009 um 09:23 Uhr
Hallo Silviane,
endlich kann ich mir mal Zeit nehmen und Deinen Blog anschauen.
Ich wünsch Dir weiterhin eine schöne und unvergessliche Reise! Liebe Grüße aus Kiel/Schleswig!
Am 25. April 2009 um 16:30 Uhr
Wunderschön- sowohl die Fotos als auch die Berichte an sich! Wünsche Dir, dass es auch so eindrucksvoll weitergeht.
Ganz liebe Grüße! Claudia
Am 26. April 2009 um 12:21 Uhr
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