Impressionen

von unterwegs

Bezaubernder Libanon

Nach unserer schon recht abenteuerlichen Iranreise gings mindestens ebenso abenteuerlich weiter – wir waren eine knappe Woche im Libanon unterwegs.

Man hat mir ja von verschiedenen Seiten vorgeschwärmt von diesem Land und ich wollte es nicht so recht glauben, weil man vom Libanon in den letzten Jahren ja eher beunruhigende Nachrichten mitbekommen hat. Aber nach einer Woche in diesem Land kann ich die Begeisterung sehr gut verstehen…

Startpunkt für unseren Kurztrip war Baalbek, wo wir das Glück hatten die Grabungsmannschaft zu treffen, die uns sehr freundlich aufgenommen, verköstigt und beherbergt hat. Dadurch konnten wir gleich zwei Tage dort bleiben und haben dann auch von den jeweiligen Fachleuten Führungen zu den einzelnen Gebäuden bzw. Flächen bekommen.
Baalbek ist vor allem für seine Tempelanlagen bekannt. Berühmt geworden sind die sechs Säulen des Jupitertempels die ungeheure Dimensionen haben, 20m hoch und 2m im Durchmesser. Auf den Fotos, die man so kennt, wirkt das gar nicht so, aber wenn man dann selber davor steht wird man einfach erschlagen von der Größe. Das gilt aber auch für den benachbarten, etwas kleineren Baal-Tempel, dessen Deutung als Baal-Tempel wohl höchst umstritten ist, wie ich gelernt hab.
Die ganze Anlage beeindruckt einfach durch ihre Größe. Das scheint aber gerade das rätselhafte daran zu sein, denn Baalbek – oder Heliopolis, wie der Ort auch genannt wurde – war nicht gerade ein zentraler Ort, sondern eher eine Provinzstadt. Daher können sich die Archäologen und Architekten im Moment nicht so recht erklären, warum ausgerechnet dort diese monumentale Anlage gebaut wurde.

Baalbek - Jupitertempel

Baalbek - Jupitertempel

Baalbek

Baalbek

Baalbek - Bacchustempel (?)

Baalbek - Bacchustempel (?)

Von Baalbek gings weiter nach Beirut, wo wir direkt neben dem sog. Märtyrerplatz gewohnt haben. Und spätestens dort wurde einem die jüngere bzw. jüngste Geschichte dieses kleinen Landes bewusst. Das ganze Land ist voll mit Militär, an allen wichtigen Gebäuden stehen Soldaten, die bis an die Zähne bewaffnet sind und nicht selten stehen mehrere bemannte Panzer noch mit davor. Dazu kommt, dass an allen Strassen Kontrollpunkt aufgebaut sind und alles notwendige für die Abriegelung der Strasse gleich nebenan bereit steht. Und da wird einem dann doch etwas mulmig. Wenn man dann durchs abendlich Beirut spaziert, vorbei an den Strassencafes und den teuren Boutiquen, wo eigentlich eine recht fröhliche und ausgelassene Stimmung herrscht, beschleicht einen manchmal das Gefühl, dass die Menschen dort sehr für den Augenblick leben. Ein bißchen kommt es einem vor wie der Tanz auf dem Vulkan, weil man nicht weiß, wie lange es wieder ruhig bleiben wird. Aber vielleicht täusch ich mich ja auch und die Zukunft wird ruhigere Zeiten bringen.

Beirut - Moschee am Märtyrerplatz

Beirut - Moschee am Märtyrerplatz

In Beirut hatten wir nur recht wenig Zeit, aber wir haben die Gelegenheit genutzt das Nationalmuseum zu besuchen, das absolut sehenswert ist. Und natürlich haben wir die libanesische Küche getestet, die recht raffinierte Gemüsegerichte zu bieten hat, was nach dem gegrillten Hähnchen der vorherigen 8 Wochen eine echte Abwechslung auf meinem Speiseplan war.

Von Beirut aus haben wir Byblos besucht, ein verträumtes Hafenstädtchen nördlich von Beirut. Byblos war vor allem zur Zeit der Phönizier eine wichtige Hafenstadt. Heute kann man dort auf dem Gelände einer mittelalterlichen Burg auch noch ein römisches Theater, Reste einer frühbronzezeitlichen Stadt mit Festungsmauer, Tempel und Wohngebäuden, Reste eines achämenidischen Tempels und noch so einige andere bauliche Reste besichtigen – ein Paradies für Archäologen sozusagen. Und zudem liegt das Gelände ganz malerisch am Meer mit hübschen Bergen im Hintergrund, idyllischer gehts kaum!

Byblos

Byblos

nochmal Byblos

nochmal Byblos

und nochmal Byblos - weils so schön war

und nochmal Byblos - weils so schön war

Neben Byblos standen noch Sidon und Tyros auf dem Programm, die zur Zeit der Phönizier ebenfalls wichtige Hafen- und Handelsstädte waren. In Sidon hatten wir nur Zeit das sog. Eschmun-Heiligtum zu besuchen – eine Tempelanlage der Phönizier aus dem 5. Jh. v. Chr. In Tyros waren wir etwas länger unterwegs, so dass wir vor allem die Überreste aus römischer Zeit intensiver besichtigen konnten. Die liegen zum einen recht idyllisch direkt am Meer, zum anderen (Hippodrom und Gräberstrasse) mitten in der Stadt. Das Hippodrom besticht – ähnlich wie Baalbek – durch seine unglaubliche Größe. Die Gräberstrasse ist hingegen wegen ihres guten Erhaltungszustands bemerkenswert. Mir war ja bekannt, dass die Gräber in der Römerzeit – extra muros – entlang der Strassen ausserhalb der Stadt lagen, aber in Tyros ist die Erhaltung so gut, dass man sich das auch endlich mal richtig vorstellen kann. Man spaziert dort auf der alten römischen Strasse auf das Hippodrom zu und läuft dabei an Unmengen von Sarkophagen und Columbarien vorbei, die zwar bunt durcheinander gewürftelt sind, aber so aussehen, als wären sie erst vor 100 Jahren dorthin gestellt worden.

im alten Tyros

Im alten Tyros

Im alten Tyros

Im alten Tyros

Und nochmal Tyros - mit Palme

Und nochmal Tyros - mit Palme...

...und mit Sarkophag

...und mit Sarkophag

Auf dem Weg zum Hippodrom

Auf dem Weg zum Hippodrom

In Tyros kamen wir dann auch noch in den Genuss einer für Reisestipendiaten (mit notorisch knappem Budget) recht luxuriösen Unterkunft. Wir haben uns eine Nacht in einem – in Archäologenkreisen wohl schon bekannten – Hotel direkt am Leuchtturm gegönnt. Das tolle an dem Hotel waren weniger die Zimmer als vielmehr die Lage direkt am Strand. Die Terrasse des Restaurants war so nah ans Meer gebaut, dass man dort nicht selten einen Spritzer Meerwasser abbekommen hat, wenn die Welle mal etwas höher war. Dazu gabs natürlich einen romantischen Sonnenuntergang, so dass wir bis spät in die Nacht einfach dort sitzen geblieben sind und das Wellenrauschen genossen haben.

Unser Hotel am Leuchtturm

Unser Hotel am Leuchtturm

inklusive Sonnenuntergang

inklusive Sonnenuntergang

Alles in allem würde ich den Ausflug in den Libanon als ein absolutes Highlight meiner bisherigen Reise sehen. Das Meer dort ist leuchtend blau und als Kulisse im Hintergrund leuchten die schneebedeckten Gipfel des Libanon, die bis zu 3000 m hoch sind.

Libanon - schneebedeckte Gipfel

Libanon - schneebedeckte Gipfel...

Zudem hatten wir so manche nette Begegnung mit den Menschen dort, die sehr freundlich, offen und immer hilfsbereit sind. Und natürlich ist auch die Küche sehr zu empfehlen. Ich gehöre ab jetzt also auch zum Kreis der Leute, die vom Libanon schwärmen.

...und azurblaues Meer

...und azurblaues Meer

Der Beitrag wurde am Montag, den 18. Mai 2009 um 17:22 Uhr von scharl veröffentlicht und wurde unter Allgemein, Libanon abgelegt. Sie können die Kommentare zu diesem Eintrag durch den RSS 2.0 Feed verfolgen. Sie können einen Kommentar schreiben, oder einen Trackback auf Ihrer Seite einrichten.

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