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Italienreise

Von Griechenland ging es weiter gen Westen…nach Italien. Bei unserer Ankunft in Ancona hat uns erst einmal eine dicke Regenwolke begrüßt, die uns die ganze Italienfahrt hindurch begleitet hat – aber da ich in den letzten Monaten praktisch keine Regenwolke gesehen habe, war das auch nicht weiter wild.
In Italien konnte ich vor allem die Eisenzeit kennenlernen, d.h. die Villanova-Kultur, die die Eisenzeit in Italien einleitet und die darauf folgende Zeit der Etrusker. Wobei in der kurzen Zeit, die wir in Mittel- und Norditalien verbracht haben v.a. verschiedene Museen auf dem Programm standen.

Grabtumulus in der Etruskernekropole von Cerveteri
Grabtumulus in der Etruskernekropole von Cerveteri

Erstes Ziel war Latium. Von Ancona sind wir daher direkt nach Westen, also einmal quer durch den Stiefel gefahren, um Tarquinia und Cerveteri anzusteuern.  Beides waren unter den Etruskern sehr wichtige Städte. Berühmt sind heute vor allem die beiden Nekropolen, die zum Unesco-Weltkulturerbe zählen und für Archäologen und Nicht-Archäologen absolut sehenswert sind.

Unterwegs in der Nekropole von Cerveteri
Unterwegs in der Nekropole von Cerveteri
Weitere Tumuli in Cerveteri
Weitere Tumuli in Cerveteri

Cerveteri ist eine Nekropole, die aus einer fast unüberblickbaren Menge an Hügel- oder Tumulusgräbern besteht, durch die regelrecht Straßen führen. Viele der Grabhügel sind entweder noch nicht ausgegraben oder nicht zugänglich, aber das wenige, was zu sehen ist, ist überwältigend genug.

Straße mit Wagenspuren aus der Etruskerzeit - Cerveteri

Straße mit Wagenspuren aus der Etruskerzeit - Cerveteri

In den Grabhügeln (die etwa ab dem 7. Jh. v. Chr. errichtet werden) befinden sich teils mehrräumige Grabkammern, die man über eine Treppe betritt. Die Grabkammern selbst sind oft architektonisch ausgeschmückt z.B. mit Säulen. Und eine der Grabkammern ist innen sogar mit bemalten Reliefs ausgestattet. Dort sieht man dann viele kleine Grabkämmerchen aneinander gereiht und aus jeder Kammer schaut ein aus Stein gearbeitetes, rot bemaltes Kissen hervor, so als wär dort gerade noch jemand drauf gelegen. Und über jedem dieser Kämmerchen hängen dann – als Steinrelief ausgearbeitet und bemalt – Waffen, wie Schwerter und Schilde, und Haushaltsgegenstände. Also alles, was man auf dem Weg ins Jenseits vielleicht gerne dabei gehabt hätte.

Etruskische "Urnenbehälter" in Tarquinia

Etruskische "Urnenbehälter" in Tarquinia

Tarquinia, die andere Nekropole der Etrusker (die frühesten Gräber datieren etwa ab dem 6. Jh. v. Chr.), ist ähnlich und doch wieder ganz anders. Auch in Tarquinia betritt man die Grabkammern über eine Treppe und auch hier sind die Grabkammern teilweise mehrräumig und mit kleinen architektonischen Details ausgeschmückt. Warum Tarquinia aber so berühmt ist, sind die wirklich unglaublich gut erhaltenen Malereien. Denn die Grabkammern dort sind über und über mit Fresken ausgeschmückt, darunter finden sich florale Muster genauso wie Jagd- oder Tanzszenen.

Tarquinia - Fresken in einer Grabkammer
Tarquinia – Fresken in einer Grabkammer
...und nochmal Fresken aus Tarquinia
…und nochmal Fresken aus Tarquinia

Um die Etrusker und ihre Vorgänger noch besser kennenzulernen, waren wir in den Museen von Cerveteri und Tarquinia,  und in der Toskana dann in den Museen von Volterra und Florenz unterwegs. Aber so eine Fahrt durch die Toskana wäre ja nur eine halbe Sache, wenn man nicht auch noch einige der großen Berühmtheiten aus jüngerer Zeit „mitnehmen“ würde…und so hat es uns dann auch noch nach San Gimignano verschlagen, wo wir uns die Geschlechtertürme angeschaut haben. Und in Florenz haben wir natürlich einen Tag in den Uffizien verbracht…

Ankunft in der Toskana
Ankunft in der Toskana
Geschlechtertürme in San Gimignano
Geschlechtertürme in San Gimignano
Blick auf Florenz
Blick auf Florenz

Aber viel Zeit blieb uns nicht, denn meine Italienreise war leider nur eine kurze Angelegenheit. Das eigentliche Ziel war nämlich Südfrankreich, wo ich vor einigen Tagen auch gut gelandet bin und von wo ich bald berichten werde…

Herzliche Grüße
S.

Der Beitrag wurde am Sonntag, den 5. Juli 2009 um 20:37 Uhr von scharl veröffentlicht und wurde unter Allgemein, Italien abgelegt. Sie können die Kommentare zu diesem Eintrag durch den RSS 2.0 Feed verfolgen. Sie können einen Kommentar schreiben, oder einen Trackback auf Ihrer Seite einrichten.

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    Ein sehr interessanter Bericht, der aus den üblichen „Sonne- Sand- und Meer“- Geschichten heraussticht. Eine Fortsetzung wäre schön…

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